How much louder is a ported box compaired to a sealed subwoofer box? Is there a big difference? I am buying 2 15″ Kicker CVX subwoofers at 1000watts rms each. I am just trying to decide which box to go with. Thanks Much!
You want SPL or SQ? How much room do you have for the box? How much power are you going to hit them with? A ported box will be louder. The sub will have lower power handling, but is more efficient. I prefer sealed boxes, because the bass is tighter, and the subs have higher power handling.

I’ve been trying different things with subwoofer boxes and one thing I was going to try is mount the port on the outside of the box. Does anybody see something wrong with this? Currently Im planning on putting in 3 P212D2′S
ive calculated the volume for the missing port and am going to build it around those demensions
I do not think this will work well the port length is usually determined by finding the inside volume of the sub box and calculating the correct port length if you mount the port on the outside i think you will not get as good of sound as if you mounted the proper length port on the inside.
i have klipsch speakers with a great subwoofer and wondering if it could be hooked up some how to car. Just the subwoofer.
Most house spekers are 8 ohm. Most car speakers are 4 ohm. The load at 8 ohm on an amp usually cuts the power in half with what the amp puts out at 4 ohm. So the amp would need to be twice the power.
You must also know the RMS watts of the speaker to get the most out of the system.
More info here http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com
how you rate the cerwin-vega stroker and the stroker pro car subwoofer. I would like to install car stereo system on my jeep grand cherokee, but i dont know whitch subwoofers are better.
well, i have the cerwin vega strokers 124. 12′ on a lil kicker 750.1 zx an they hit so hard in my car that it is hard to drive down the road because your eyeballs wanna roll in the back of you head. becareful with the pro i can only imagine if you get the an powered the right an get a big big box. you will beat harder than you have ever heard i promise…
I just bought a 2005 Pontiac GTO. I have the completed sound system from my old car and just need it professionally installed into my new ride. I am looking for stealth, and sound quality, nothing flashy. I have MB Quart Q-series components, a JL Audio 10W7 sub, two JL Audio amps, and an Alpine 9855 head unit. I also have a bulk kit of Dynamat Xtreme that I need installed into my trunk and doors.
I will not use HiFi Buys in Roswell due to a bad experience with them. I am now considering other options, and hopefully someone on here can refer me to a high-quality, reputable shop with plenty of references. I would prefer not to drive all the way to Marietta, Lawrenceville, etc. It is not a requirement, but someone with experience on the 2004-2006 GTO will be helpful.
Hello. I cant completely answer your question, but maybe I can help. I dont believe in "big-box" car audio companies. Support your independent, local shops. Also remember that just because someone has a piece of paper saying that they know something, isnt always the best way. I am not MECP cert, but only because I dont make any more money to get the paper. However, I do have 16 years of professional experience that speaks for itself. Just dont think that book knowledge makes one the best choice over another. Look at some demo cars and other installs. Again, support the individually owned shops. They tend to care more about you and your business. Maybe I helped.
i am trying to set up my car audio and i want to hook up my rear speakers to my amplifier and sub. any suggestions? thanks.
Head Unit: Clarion DB325
Amp: Sony XM-SD22X
Subwoofer: ALPINE SWR-1242D 12" 1500W D4 TYPE R SUBWOOFER
Speakers: JL Audio TR690-TXi 3-Way Speakers 6×9 (i forget what model the speakers are in so these may not be right. i know they are JLaudio though)
Im not really into techs but your sys is cool… BOOOOYAAAAAH goodluck…
Would a 600 watt amp push a jl audio w7?
Any amp will power it. Stick with at least what the manufacturer recommends for the minimum. Almost all have a recommendation.
"Underpowering" will not damage a sub, but what is known as clipping can. Simply put, clipping is when the amplifier "runs out of power" to supply the sub. This creates a square wave, instead of the normal sine wave, and the harmonics with it carry more power than a standard sine wave which is the reason a driver will heat up quicker. Therefor, the sub reaches it’s thermal limitations faster than normal, possibly melting the voice coil.
See here for more on the subject –
http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm
Money is not a factor, but how much would each of them cost? I want the best in sq and spl. rank them each on a scale of 1 through 10 (10 being the best) on sq, spl, and overall.
and what amp should i power them with?
The RE XXX without a doubt. The FI could be louder maybe. But, the XXX is like King of subs. They weigh 78 lbs each. JL W7 might yield the best sq but wont be near as loud as those other 2. The RE and FI both rms at 2000 watts if I’m right and the JL W7 rms at 1000. So twice as much power is needed for those two subs. If it were me I would go with the W7 because I am more of an SQ guy. Also you save tons on amplifiers, big three, caps, alternator, battery.
Hope this helped.
I have a 10" JL audio w6 the old version 1 subwoofer, and I was needing to know how big I should build the box for a single cab chevy s-10. I want the most spl I can get with the room I got. Vented? Sealed? Cubic inches?
Go with JL’s box specs:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/8-12W6_BDS.pdf
for high SPL go with a ported box