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Extended cab, quad cab, dodge, ford, any tips.. thanks
One that you will be driving into the lake because JL…
No, Basically anything will work because trucks don’t have a trunk, the subs would be mouted in the cab so you could hear it better without a slight loss of volume caused by the seat in a car, but like I say, I like subs better in a car, but thats me.
The make of the truck won’t matter, its the alternator that matters. Will it supply enough power or will I have to upgrade? That’s the only thing to consider in make of vehicle to check beforehand if they make a high output alt for it, which I highly bet they DO.
Preferably 1.5 ohms…
And 12 or 13.5 inch…
Possibly 10 inch…
cheapest price on the web is from www.woofersetc.com and the prices for the 10, 12, and 13.5 are $449.00, $599.00, and $799.00 respectively
like i want something cheap that puts out good sound quality.
thanks alot.
yea i do want cheap.
i used all my money on the JL
is there like any JL speakers maybe cheap on ebay?
like cheap JL’s that would be good for the W7.
i would save more money and get some Diamond Audio HEX components or something in that price range. It would be a waste to have an awesome sub and poor speakers. But, money is money, spend it how you like. I think Alpine has some nice components, Infinity, etc.
Hoped this helped.
Was looking to by a Re sx but will get the w7 if its better? How much will a 15" re sx set me back? Which would you prefer? Im not a audio expert so was wanting your honest opinion. Thanks
http://www.reaudio.com/
not sure about the price, you can bet it will be waaay cheaper than a w7
with my own experience, the w7 is highly over priced and can easily be out performed by other brands such as DD, RE, TCaudio….i have a brahma15" from adire audio that will surely out perform a w7. (to bad adire is out of business)
another thing to remember, the enclosure make or breaks the sub. even a crap sub can sound awesome in the right enclosure. do not go online and buy some prefab box. if your going to spend the $ on a quality sub, then show it respect by giving it the best home you can. (i design and build custom enclosures if you need one).
I have a couple of questions regarding the w7. First is how does the speaker mount? I noticed the front has no lip after the rubber, the only holes i see are in the back.Second is this speaker really worth the money? I noticed the msrp is extremely high. Do thees speaker perform.
IMO i think they are overpriced for what they are, they are SQL subs i’d go with a kicker l7 for what its worth put it in right enclosure and you’ll be louder than what it but the l7 will be loud and low bass SPL while the w7 will be sq less bang than l7 i’d say, but if you’ve heard them then its up to you really
I drive a 08 g35 sedan. Just to let you know since the trunk has its own section, not like a civic hatchback or acura rsx trunk.
Only if you have a sub-sonic filter on your head unit/crossover/amp.
A ported enclosure works by having air in the port operating equal but opposite of the speaker cone. It forces the sub to "work harder" at a specific frequency… or more specifically, causes in increase in resistance to cone motion. The sub can be driven harder and have a higher output down to the tuning frequency.
This is where it gets sticky: If you play music that is below the tuning frequency, it unloads the driver. It’s like not having your sub in a box at all… and can cause major damage to the sub.
That’s where a sub-sonic filter comes into place. A sub-sonic filter can be set at the tuning frequency of the box and prevent those low frequencies from ever reaching (and possibly damaging) the sub.
So what happens when you are listening to a song that has low frequency notes below the tuning frequency? You lose that part of the song. If it’s a low bass note, it never reaches the sub and you never hear it.
So unless you have a sub-sonic filter, know the tuning frequency of your ported box, and know that your music won’t go below that point, you may want to stick with a sealed box for now.
Mark
looking to install a sub and don’t know what I can get away with without changing the alternator and get new batteries.
Anyone know the best system I can get for a stock car?
Thanks 
How big is your alternator? It’s never a bad idea to go with an h.o. Personally I would not go over 50-60 (600+actual rms after working in effeciency) amps on most cars and not expect dimming.
is it really worth the extra money to go with the w7?
imo, there is a lot of differnce. the w6 sounds badass. very good tight bass, and overall good SPL. the w7 doesnt sound as good but does go a lot louder. if you want the best of both worlds, go with 2 w6's. it will be about the same cost as a w7, will sound better, and be louder. but if you can find a hell of a deal on a w7, then take it.
good luck
i saw two r 12s that hit 140 decibels. so i was wondering what one w7 would be able to hit. and i’m debating weather to get one w7 or Cerwin-Vega Stroker 152 or the orion i just want maximum loudness. so which would get the highest decibels.
There is no way to give an exact or even close answer. There are way to many things that effect output. The choice of sub woofer is not one of the main ones. Do some research and learn about ways to achieve high output.
I have a toyota tundra 07 and am looking to good, true sounding bass in it. What kind of amp should i power it with? how much money am i looking at? and is it worth the value?
yes its worth the value and i would get a 400 watt alpine amp which will run you about 300 dollars or less
good luck
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