What materials did you use to build your subwoofer enclosure?

I am interested in what everyone out there uses to make their subwoofer boxes? I am going to make one for my 12" Pioneer sub.

This might blow some minds but if it should be non-porous, that would leave out MDF. I have seen a live demonstration with 3/4" MDF where a vacuum plate was attached to a piece of MDF on a metal surface and you couldn’t move it, proving that the air was being suctioned completely through the MDF.

Weird, huh?

Not trying to dog your answer, Rick, I appreciate your contributions, but this surprised me as well.

As far as building my enclosures, I mostly used 3/4 MDF or 1" High Density Fiberboard, which really produces good-sounding boxes. I usually use good old carpenter’s wood glue and a nail gun. I haven’t done many fiber glass boxes because I can do nearly any type of box with wood. I have done curved walls by soaking wood in water and bending the material, then clamping it until its dry. This is much the sane thing as cabinet makers do for bars and stuff.

Although I’ve always siliconed the inside edges of my boxes, finding out that MDF is porous makes me wonder if it really matters. I mean, you don’t want glaring cracks but you shouldn’t have any if the material was well cut. The installation general manager of the company I used to work for did tests on sealed boxes. They measured responses and then drilled 1/2" holes in the enclosure and kept adding more and more. Apparently, it didn’t make any noticeable difference until there were a lot of holes. What seems to be more important than sealing is rigidity.

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7 Responses to “ What materials did you use to build your subwoofer enclosure? ”

1. mdcbert says:

   July 3, 2009 at 11:37 pm

   CONCRETE!!

   Its just a 15" with a port on the side. VERY stiff enclosure , kinda on the heavy side, but no one touches it for sound quality!

   This is for a home system…
   References :
   http://www.thespeakerstore.com/glossary/enclosures.htm
2. bigsportsnut2 says:

   July 4, 2009 at 12:27 am

   3/4"mdf
   liquid nails
   drywall screws
   carpet
   high tack spray glue

   here is a link on box building

   http://members.aol.com/mycarstr/Help/box_build.htm
   References :
3. Rick says:

   July 4, 2009 at 1:15 am

   you want it not only stiff and strong, but also non pourus (not concrete lol…) be sure when you build it you build it to the specs of the sub, it will make a dramtic difference over one that is not.
   i attached a vid that walks you through making a sub box…
   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qb_hhu6nTX0

   UPDATE:
   The MDF being fairly porus doesn’t completely surprise me, i have heard of some people using a water sealer or like a deck sealer on thier box after assembling it to iliminate some of that porusness… there really is no totally non porus material, even steel is porus…
   References :
4. evil_rondy says:

   July 4, 2009 at 1:24 am

   This might blow some minds but if it should be non-porous, that would leave out MDF. I have seen a live demonstration with 3/4" MDF where a vacuum plate was attached to a piece of MDF on a metal surface and you couldn’t move it, proving that the air was being suctioned completely through the MDF.

   Weird, huh?

   Not trying to dog your answer, Rick, I appreciate your contributions, but this surprised me as well.

   As far as building my enclosures, I mostly used 3/4 MDF or 1" High Density Fiberboard, which really produces good-sounding boxes. I usually use good old carpenter’s wood glue and a nail gun. I haven’t done many fiber glass boxes because I can do nearly any type of box with wood. I have done curved walls by soaking wood in water and bending the material, then clamping it until its dry. This is much the sane thing as cabinet makers do for bars and stuff.

   Although I’ve always siliconed the inside edges of my boxes, finding out that MDF is porous makes me wonder if it really matters. I mean, you don’t want glaring cracks but you shouldn’t have any if the material was well cut. The installation general manager of the company I used to work for did tests on sealed boxes. They measured responses and then drilled 1/2" holes in the enclosure and kept adding more and more. Apparently, it didn’t make any noticeable difference until there were a lot of holes. What seems to be more important than sealing is rigidity.
   References :
   I have been a mobile electronics installer for 25 years, 15 of which in my own retail store in Los Angeles. I have had installations featured in "Installation News" magazine and have won many awards in autosound competitions.

   "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people."
5. ct_thebull says:

   July 4, 2009 at 1:42 am

   to help with the solidity, brace the box and put a layer or two or fiberglass resin and matting on the inside
   References :
6. scott p says:

   July 4, 2009 at 2:27 am

   bigsportsnut2 I hope you are joking about the liquid nails, don’t use liquid nails it is flammable, use hot glue
   MDF is great but use a mask when cutting or sanding, the dust is toxic.
   but if you look in at my pic I use fiberglass
   References :
7. loudlancer says:

   July 4, 2009 at 7:56 am

   I have been into audio for several years, mainly doing my own installs, building my own boxes, and at one point I worked a full time job, and built boxes for many people. Anyways, Liquid nails is not very good, carpenters glue is sufficent, and fibreglass resin is the way to get rid of the porisness, However hot glue??? Mdf is very bad for your lungs, its basically glue and sawdust!!!! The fibreglass resin Idea still leaves porisness behind but much much less. Just my 0.02