I cant decide between JL audio 12W3v3-4 subwoofer and pioneer premier ts-w2504spl subwoofer. the rms rating and peak power is way higher on the pioneer sub, i have a 600 watt mono amp, 600 watts at 4 ohms, 1000 watts at 2 ohms.
im afraid of blowing the JL sub because the rms rating is 300 watts, peak power is 600 watts. and wouldnt the lower watts make the sub less powerful and lower quality then the pioneer?
i just dont want to pay for the JL brand name when i can get a equal or better alternative like the pioneer.
you need to get a sub that will match your RMS wattage at the correct impedance (ohms) and buy from a CEA-compliant company (you could do better than both of those brands– pioneer is OK but JL Audio is way overpriced for what you get)
you need to stick with CEA-compliant brands- which means that the amps have been tested and produce or exceed the advertised RMS wattage with minimum distortion and the subs can handle their advertised RMS wattage also
here are the top CEA-compliant brands
Alpine (highly recommend)
Bazooka (don’t like their subs)
Blaupunkt (don’t like their subs)
Clarion
Eclipse
Infinity (highly recommend)
JBL
JL Audio (very good but over priced)
JVC
Kenwood (don’t like their subs)
Kicker (the best in my opinion)
Memphis
MTX (highly recommend)
Orion
Pioneer
Polk Audio (highly recommend)
PPI
Rockford Fosgate (highly recommend)
Sony (don’t like their subs)
I have two Ma Audio HK12X2 subwoofers and I want to make a vented box that is the perfect size. Whats are some good programs that help you design a sub box, I doesnt matter if they are not free just let me know of all the software you know. Also if you know the driver parameters for these subwoofers can you list them here.
pen+paper+math. its all you need.
I have a magnet from a 12 inch subwoofer, but i do not have the speaker itself. I know how to build an enclosure already, but i need to know how to build the actual speaker itself. I was going to try to put a 10 inch speaker on the 12 magnet if possible. Any ideas?
Well if you can get a basket (where the magnet would attach) to house all of the components then its possible. I have thought about it myself. Check out http://youtube.com/watch?v=izQHjVWfzDQ
They show the basics of building a speaker. Its basically a voice coil (bunch of copper wire wrapped around a paper tube) attached to a cone.
Hope this helps.
I’m setting up a system in my jeep,and I have a 300/4 running my highs,but i wanted to know what kind of power protection do i need for the 1000/1 amp?I’m running just one 13w7 with an alpine head unit.
Use this guide to determine what size power/ground cables you’ll need for your amp(s).
Add the fuse sizes on the amps together (ie: 25 + 50 = 75amps) and find out how long you’ll need it to be.
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
What ever size wire you use, put a fuse within 18" of the battery. *If you have a battery in the trunk as well, put a fuse within 18" of that one also.
4g wire goes up to 150amps (you’d use 150amp fuses). 2g 250amps (250amp fuses), etc.
Good Luck!
I have a fully enclosed box right now is there going to be a difference if I get a ported or bandpass box?
Depending on which JL subs you have. Sealed enclosure will give you the best sound quality, ported will be louder, bandpass will be even louder yet. Just consider what amp you are using, and how much bass you really want. If you are using a weaker amp, i’d suggest the ported enclosure, it will compensate for your amps lack of driving ability. But if the amp is of good quality go for the sealed enclosure. Unless you’re a bass phreak dont do bandpass, it will sound the worst, loudest, but the worst true sound.
There is a small crack in one of my subs and when it hits it kind of raddles I need to know how to fix it if there is anyway.
I read that you should get some rubber glue, and "patch" it by putting a thin layer of rubber glue over it, then a piece of paper then another thin coat of rubber glue over the top of the paper. Do this on both sides of the cone. You will have to take the sub out of its enclosure to get to the other side though.
The rubber glue patch will hold well and be flexible enough to keep from tearing again and should restore the audio quality of your sub.
Good Luck!
can i just get a switch and connect the remote wire from the sub to one part of the switch and the other remote half from the cd player to the other part of the switch? would it work?
Yes you can put a switch inline with your REM wire.
i personally have a JL right now and am currently looking to go something better down the line. i read about Fi subwoofers but i have never heard of the brand and it’s not even in local audio shops (checked at least 10 no one heard of the brand) so i was wondering if Fi is reliable
is it better to go with a JL W6 or a Fi Q both 12"
and what would be a good 1000w amp to match Fi Q?
dude, I know jl audio!…but in my”opinion” i would easily take that Fi sub!
not very popular, but one of the best top brands out there!
Don’t get me wrong the w6 is very nice, but Fi hands down, not all the hype, and have people wondering what you got, and be like it ain’t no mainstream bullsh*t, its Fi.
lol.
Hope I helped.
look at the watts on the sub. the RMS.
get massive audio. its the best.
I am getting 2 12" Alpine Type R subwoofers and I need a box to put them in and i am planning of buying it at audio express so they can install it for 1$. What kind of subwoofer box should I get?
Sealed.