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so I have these 2 15" kicker CVRs and I am about to build 2 subwoofer boxes 5 cubic feet @ 30 hz each (50 square in port and about 24 inch long)
but I could also do 1 big 10 cubic feet box for my 2 15" cvrs sharing the whole inside volume of the box, and also set it a 30 hz with the proper port dimmensions. I was thinking 100 sq in of port and I will compute the length.
what set up will give me the mos SPL, 2 individual 5 cubic feet plus port per box or one large 10 cubic feet plus port.
btw they will be placed were the back seat used to be in my chevrolet extended cab. and they will be facing upwart, both sub and port.
Regardless of the amount of air volume needed behind each woofer, an enclosure where each woofer has its own air space has a few advantages:
1) stucturally more solid – the less square-footage of panels around a single enclosure, the less the panels move or resonate.
2) a smaller enclosure generally results in more controlled bass. A single huge enclosure wont sound as "tight", even with the larger port and double the driver surface area. This is a subjective advantage.
3) if a woofer blows out in a single large enclosure shared with other woofers, it’s essentially the same as making the inside of the enclosure larger, causing the remaining good woofers to move more at low frequencies (higher excursion), putting the other driver(s) in danger of damage from overexcursion. Putting each woofer in its own enclosure isolates the woofers mechanically.
I have a 2000 Mustang GT with a factory stereo that has no RCA outputs on it. I purchased a line out converter and hooked it up using the rear speakers. My problem is that it plays all range of sounds from the subwoofer not just the bass, is it something with the converter or do I need to change the settings on the amp? The sub worked well in my otehr car but it had rca outputs from the stereo.
you need to run a x-over or a choke to cut out the highs
Hi all, thanks for reading my question!
I have a subwoofer and amplifier from my older car and would like to install them for my new car (Toyota Highlander). The CD stereo is the original stock, and I have already taken it out of the dashboard and checked what optional outputs it has on the back. It actually did not have a subwoofer output. When I asked car audio staff at Best Buy, he said that we can use a splitter (I am not sure if it is correct) and get the cable hooked up from the speakers on the door.
I know if I take my car to car audio shops, I can get it done fast. But I dnt want to leave my car for a few days because I need to drive it everyday. Have someone done this before ? Is there any website that instruct the installation or sell the splitter I have mentioned before ? Thank you, all!
Actually, probably 99.9% of factory radios have no low-level outputs (I had a Mazda MX-6 once that did).
1) You can use what is called "high-level" inputs that many (especially lower-cost) amps feature. This is usually a plug with four wires for connecting directly to existing speaker outputs, usually to the positive and negative of a left and a right speaker. You can do this either at the speakers or behind the radio.
2) Connect a high-to-low adapter, which connects just like the high-level inputs, but drops the signal to a lower level first and uses an RCA cable to connect to the amp.
I’ve heard that JL Audio is good but pricy. Also heard that Alpine, Polk, and Kicker are really good. But I dont know which one to get. Can someone please help me. I dont need a award winning system, but I want it loud. I listen to almost every genre of music. And I plan to get in car speakers only for now. And my budget is about 300-350
Thanks. If you need more info let me know! (:
Pioneer. Good and inexpensive. Alpine is ok, too.
I have 2 12" Kicker solobaric L7’s & a JL Audio 1000 watt amp.
The costs and trade-offs of trying to do that make just buying a good but not expensive home audio system far more logical.
You would need a power converter, for one thing, because car audio gear doesn’t run off of house power.
Also, car speakers have to be small and configured to work within a car’s interior; The acoustical environment in a house is quite different, so a car system setup in a house won’t sound the same that it does in it’s car.
Spend a few hundred bucks and just buy some proper home gear; if you have no need for the car equipment, sell it off to help pay for the new home gear.
To answer the question the way you asked it:
I’d get "Amp Lee" to do it since he is retired, if his knees can handle it. 
I suppose you mean "what kind of amp do I need to drive/power 2 JL audio W7 speakers adequately?" Those are one set of power hungry speakers. With a 1.5 OHM nominal impedance you are going to workout some amps to death or blow the speakers when the amp clips. If you look at the speaker impedance curves that come with the speaker documentation you will probably find that a some point the speaker will present your amp with close to 0 OHMs impedance. That is a direct short. Your amp better be able to handle that kind of load without blowing up.
Stay away from cheap amps. If the amp is only spec’s watts then run away as fast as you can. If it spec’s watt’s and nothing about minimum impedance, keep looking. If it spec’s talk about about watts into minimum ohms and nothing about RMS, then divide all numbers by 2. A good rule of thumb is you need an amp that will be able to supply 2 times the maximum rated current to avoid clipping. Then you fuse the speakers to protect them from over current problems.
Look at the Optidrive 4000 for a reasonable cost amp. Of course you need 1 of them for each speaker. Should be able to provide 2000 watts RMS into 1 OHM.
Another choice is Clif Designs 1200W High Current Amplifier 800W RMS per channel @ 0.5 ohm
Maybe the Rockford Fosgate Power Series T10001bd 1000 Watt Class-bd Mono Amplifier 1000 W x 1 @ 1 Ohm
Absolutly! One of the best sounding Speakers I have heard. But If you just want something to make your trunk rattle, Then go to a pawn shop. I hear they always have deals.
I want the best subwoofer out there the loudest and deepest bass possible, and No! money is no option. What should I get. If you favor another subwoofer with more performance pleaz note. Pleaz add as much detail possible. I dont want to throw money away. I just want the best. NO NOT THE JACK HAMMER! But I dont want to be disappointed either. Buy the t2 and it loose its quality in a month. pleaz be as helpful as you can and thanks for your time, effort, and patience.
I do not like the fosgate T2s. I have seen alot of them blow.
This is one of the most efficient subs I have seen for the money. This is a newer company, but they are out to make a name for themselves with some really nice products:
http://www.powerbassusa.com/products/subwoofers/3xl_subwoofers.html
The 12" powerbass model has a 91dB (1w/1m) efficiency rating.
The 13W7 has a 86.3 dB (1w/1m) efficiency rating.
What that means is, if you give both subs only 1 watt, the powerbass sub is already 4.7dB louder! (3dB increase is double the volume).
These are really nice subs.
I have a Blaupunkt amp dishing out i believe to be eihter 500 watts or 600.. not sure, anyways.. the W6 cracked around the rim and im not sure whether it was due to too much wattage or me just abusing it with too much bass.. however, im looking to replace it and im aware that there is a circuit board within the enclosure, im not sure what it controls or how it works but could i put a differnt subwoofer than the W6 in there? or could i put something bigger? or does anyone have any suggestions what to put in my truck for a nice bass response without spending a ridiculous amount of money lol..
and by the way the car is a Lexus LS 430 2002..
If you have mids and highs in the box along with the sub,then the little circuit board would be a crossover.
That separates the bass,mids and highs from each other.
Particuarly a Kicker 12" CVR12 into a 12" enclosure/box (if that makes any difference)
drywall screws
im in the process of building one (planning stage)
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/learningcenter/car/subwoofers/box_building.html
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