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What is the best way to install my car audio system?

I have a JL audio 1000 watt amp & 2 12" Solo-Baric L7’s. What other optional pieces of equipment will I need or suggest? I want it to be the loudest it possibly can be.

If your total system power is 1000 watts RMS or more, you will need to:

1. Upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator
2. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep cycle battery
3. Upgrade the "Big 3" – that is to replace the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis with at least 1/0 AWG wire.

If your total system power is 800 watts RMS or more, you will need to:

1. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep cycle battery
2. Upgrade the "Big 3"

Failure to do this will result in you replacing them anyway as the alternator will eventually fail.

Here is a guide that will calculate what size alternator and power wires you need http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php?file=6d26c621

A second battery is never a good idea as it’s an added strain on the alternator to charge two batteries AND supply power for the car. The ONLY time a second battery is useful is if the audio system is to be used with the car off.

A cap is only good so far as the audio system isn’t trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn’t provide more power, it’s designed to ’stiffen’ the voltage to the amp, nothing esle. If the current isn’t there, a cap won’t help. The alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a cap to be of benefit which is ironically the same requirements for an amp to be efficient.

See my site for more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com

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2 Responses to “ What is the best way to install my car audio system? ”

  1. Ryan says:

    0 gauge power wire, a heavy duty alternator, 10 or 8 gauge speaker wire, a correctly sized box, ported between 40-50 hertz, a good head unit that puts out a decent preamp signal, and a parametric eq to shape the sound
    References :

  2. sparky3489 says:

    If your total system power is 1000 watts RMS or more, you will need to:

    1. Upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator
    2. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep cycle battery
    3. Upgrade the "Big 3" – that is to replace the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis with at least 1/0 AWG wire.

    If your total system power is 800 watts RMS or more, you will need to:

    1. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep cycle battery
    2. Upgrade the "Big 3"

    Failure to do this will result in you replacing them anyway as the alternator will eventually fail.

    Here is a guide that will calculate what size alternator and power wires you need http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php?file=6d26c621

    A second battery is never a good idea as it’s an added strain on the alternator to charge two batteries AND supply power for the car. The ONLY time a second battery is useful is if the audio system is to be used with the car off.

    A cap is only good so far as the audio system isn’t trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn’t provide more power, it’s designed to ’stiffen’ the voltage to the amp, nothing esle. If the current isn’t there, a cap won’t help. The alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a cap to be of benefit which is ironically the same requirements for an amp to be efficient.

    See my site for more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com
    References :
    A.A.S. degree in Electronics/Industrial Electronics with 25 years in the mobile audio/consumer electronics field

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