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I have an ‘03 Acura TL Type-S with a JL Audio 13W7, JL 1000/1, and a Jensen VM9312 running off of a standard/basic battery up front. If not the car audio specific battery shouldn’t just a yellow top or red top do it?
A cap is only good so far as the audio system isn’t trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn’t provide more power, it’s designed to ’stiffen’ the voltage to the amp, nothing esle. If the current isn’t there, a cap won’t help.
If your total system power is 1000 watts RMS or more, you will need to:
1. Upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator
2. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep cycle battery
3. Upgrade the "Big 3" – that is to replace the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis with at least 1/0 AWG wire.
Failure to do this will result in you replacing them anyway as the alternator will eventually fail.
Here is a guide that will calculate what size alternator and power wires you need http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php?file=6d26c621
You’ll need Microsft Excel to use it.
See my site for more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com
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I would recommend getting a capacitor, and possibly looking to see if you can get a stronger alternator. Upgrading your battery will be a good idea too, but I don’t think it will solve the problem completely.
References :
no most likely the problem will still be there keep the factory battery and install the yellow top in the trunk close to your amplifier
References :
Doubt tlhat will solve the light dimming. Optima still is a 12 volt battery. Low output at idle not allowing alt to put out enough amp to keep up with acc at idle. A lot of car makes lights dim at idle, mostly nature of the beast.
References :
I had a wonderful system in my Honda. I could play it with the car off for about an hour and it would start up with no problem. I was running two 10" subs.
I switched to two 12" subs (on the same amp) and it killed my battery while driving down the freeway.
I put in a 1.0 Farad Cap and I had no problems after that.
So, I would add a Cap to your amp that has the subs hooked up to it.
References :
A cap is only good so far as the audio system isn’t trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn’t provide more power, it’s designed to ’stiffen’ the voltage to the amp, nothing esle. If the current isn’t there, a cap won’t help.
If your total system power is 1000 watts RMS or more, you will need to:
1. Upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator
2. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep cycle battery
3. Upgrade the "Big 3" – that is to replace the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis with at least 1/0 AWG wire.
Failure to do this will result in you replacing them anyway as the alternator will eventually fail.
Here is a guide that will calculate what size alternator and power wires you need http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php?file=6d26c621
You’ll need Microsft Excel to use it.
See my site for more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com
References :
A.A.S. degree in Electronics/Industrial Electronics with 25 years in the mobile audio/consumer electronics field
A cap has "NO" effect on dimming lights. You need more current. An extra battery or two and a dual-battery isolator. A higher amperage alternator wouldn’t hurt either. Don’t waste your money on a capacitor that won’t do anything.
I’ve seen car systems with 20-Farad caps and they still dimmed. If people suggest 1-Farad per every 1000 watts, that should have been good for 20,000 watts. It was running "only" about 2500 watts, two JL 1000/1’s and a Fosgate.
References :
"Destroying the myths"
Mobile Electronics Installer for over 30 years.
Winner of numerous awards in auto sound competition.
Join "12-Volt HQ". Click my avatar for more info.
Like previously mentioned, a capacitor will only make your problem worse as it’s just another item your alternator has to keep charged (as well as the amp and your cars’ electronics).
Another battery will hurt also, as your alternator will have to keep it charged too.
Do the Big3 upgrade;
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1
After this, you’ll need to look into a HO (high-output) alternator.
Have Fun!
References :
http://www.the12volt.com
http://www.infowars.com
http://www.commondreams.org
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